Trecks and Climbs Programme and Log in the Bolivian and Peruvian Andes

The Peruvian and Bolivian Andes are the home to some of the most spectacular mountain setting in the all of South America, and countain some of the most spectacular and difficult Alpine climbing in the all Andes. They offer a 'Greater Ranges' experience but without the world-class expenses, time, and logistical nightmares of the Himalayas. One of the appealing characterisitics of the climbing is he outstanding alpine conditions. Excellent weather, mild temperatures, and an abundance of good ice make the Peruvian Andes a standout.

The Cordillera Blanca in Northern Perú is the world highest tropical mountain range, counting 25 peaks above 6000m and another 35 above 5700m, of which the world famous Alpamayo. The Cordillera Blanca have the bonus of relatively easy access from Huaraz, with most base camps within a day of Callejón de Huayllas.

The Cordillera Huayhuash is undoubtely the most spectacular and challenging of the Andean ranges. Huayhuash is a remote mountain range in the Northern Peruvian Andes, which contains 6 summits in excess of 6000m, incl. Yerupajá (6634m), second highest mountain in Perú and the highest point within the Amazon basin.

The Cordillera Real in Bolivia is a fine destination for mountaineering expeditions, with very stable weather, accessible peaks and excellent climbing conditions, and an interesting Bolivian cultures. the popularity of Cord. Real is largely due to easy access from La Paz to several dramatic 6000m peaks.

The Cordillera Occidental is a volcanic ranges that lies at the border between Bolivia and Chile. Sajama is the highest point in Bolivia and the Sajama National Park offers an extraordinary biodiversity, including highest trees in the world - Keñua, an abundance of wildlife - Andean cats, vicuñas, suris, chockas and a variety of other little known bird species, as well as thermal bath, historic Colonial churches and villages of traditional adobe houses.


Logbook & Prospective Programme:

08-12.05.09 (tour 1) - Cordillera Real: Condoriri Group, 'the most beautiful peaks in Bolivia via a sensational route'
- Pequeño Alpamayo: 5410m, SW Ridge, AD, 250m, 50*/60* -- Summitted 09.05.09
- Cabeza del Condor: 5648m, SW Ridge, AD+, 580m, 40*/50*/60* -- Not summitted
- Cerro Huayna Potosi: 6088m, N Ridge, AD, 250m, 60* -- Summitted on 12.05.09

15-18.05.09 (tour 2) - Cordillera Occidental: Sajama, as well as the highest point in Bolivia, an extraordinary biodiversity
- Sajama: 6549m, SE Face/Ridge, AD+, 1380, 50*/55* -- Summitted on 17.05.09

22-24.05.09 (tour 3) - Cordillera Real: Codoriri Group, because we missed Condoriri on the first go ;)
- Cabeza del Condor: 5648m, SW Ridge, AD+, 580m, 40*/50*/60* -- Summitted on 22.05.09
- A la Izquierda Condoriri: 5480m, Ventinani Direct S Face, D+, 430m, 50*/65* -- Summitted on 23.05.09

27-29.05.09 (tour 4) - Cordillera Real: Illimani, the highest peak in on the Cord. Real, just above La Paz
- Illimani: 6438m, W Face Central Peak >> South Peak, Not referenced -- Not Summitted

01-04.06.09 (tour 5) - Cordillera Blanca: acclimatisation and adaptation to local conditions
- Ishanca (5530m, South Slops, West Ridge, F)
- Ranrapalca (6162m, Northeast Face, D)

07-15.06.09 (tour 6) - Cordillera Blanca: Alpamayo, UNESCO classified 'nicest peak in the world'
- Alpamayo (5947m, French Direct, D+) -- Summitted
- Quitaraju (6036m, North face, D-) -- Summitted
- Artesonraju (6139m, North Ridge, D+) -- Not summitted

18-22.06.09 (tour 7) - Cordillera Blanca: Huascaran, the highest peaks in tropical mountain ranges, and staying 3+ days above 6000m
- Huascaran Sur (6768m, The Shield, D+) -- Summitted on 21.06.09 and camp on top
- Huascaran Norte (6664m, South Slope via the Garganta, AD-) -- Not attempted

26.06-06.07.09 (tour 8) - Cordillera Huyahuash: Jauacocha basecamp for access to a variety of classic climbs in really remote conditions
- Jirishanca (6094m, SouthWest Face (Cassin Route), TD ice mixed)
- Yerupajá (6634m, West Face, TD, 1200m, 70*) -- Attempted not summitted (on 29.06.09)
- Jirishanca (6094m, SW Face, British American route, TD ice IV mixed 4, 700m) -- Attempted not summitted (on 03.07.09)
- TAM Sur (5545m, Eastern Slopes, F+, 600m) -- Summitted and dined ontop (03.07.09)



Note 1: Peak and route informations correspond to: summit altitude, route, grades, length of technical difficulty, aver. slope angle in difficulty

Note 2: Overall grades are given in International French Adjective System (F: facile; PD: peu difficile; AD: assez difficile; D: difficile; TD: tres difficile; ED: extermement difficile). This overall rating attempts to summarise the overall difficulty of a climb, incl. length, commitment, objective hazard, technical climbing, descent, and altitude

Key contacts:
* Aldo Riveros, UIAGM AGMT Bolivia, Presidente de la Asociación de Guías de Montaña y Trekking de Bolivia, Llama Treck (www.llamatrekbolivia.com, info@llamatrekbolivia.com, Calle Illampu # 761 La Paz Bolivia, tel: 00591-2-2462410, mob: 00591-72597761)
* Jenaro Yupanqui, UIAGM AGMT Bolivia, ELMA Tour (illimani_yupanqui@hotmail.com, Calle Sagarnaga # 888 La Paz Bolivia, tel: 00591-2-2456823, mob: 00591-71581118)
* Alfredo Quintana Figueroa, UIAGM IFMGA Peru, MountClimb (www.mountclimb.com.pe, tel: 0051-043-424322, mob: 0051-043- 9610685, Huaraz Peru)
* Jaime Quintana Figueroa, UIAGM IFMGA Peru, MountClimb (www.mountclimb.com.pe, tel: 0051-043-424322, mob: 0051-043- 9610685, Huaraz Peru)
* Holmes Pantoja, UIAGM IFMGA Peru, APU Mountain Guides (www.apuperuvian.com, info@apuperuvian.com, 0051-43-426688, Jr. Daniel Villaizán 404, Huaraz Peru
* La Casa de Guias (Huaraz Peru, tel: +051-43-721811)
* Zenon, Arriero, Cashapampa Quebrada Santa Cruz Peru
* Isidro, Arriero, Llamac Cord. Huayhuash Peru

References:
* Climbs and Trekks in the Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru, Jeremy Frimer, 2005
* Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca, Brad Johnson, 2003
* The Andes of Bolivia, Alain Mesili, Producciones CIMA, 2004
* Bolivia, Climbing Guide, Yossi Brain, The Mountaineers, 1999
* The Andes, A Guide For Climbers, John Biggar, Andes, 2005
* Trekking and Climbing in the Andes, Val Pitkethly & Kate Harper, Stackpole Books, 2002
* Escaladas en los Andes, Juanjo Tomé, Desnivel Ediciones, 1999
* Las Cordilleras del Peru, César Morales Arnao, 2001